Friday, September 5, 2014

Breaking News: People are paid to do stuff they wouldn't normally do

Just over a year ago, there was a small kerfuffle in the corner of the internet I inhabit over an article by LSE anthropology professor David Graeber titled, "On the Phenomenon of Bullshit Jobs". Graeber's article is equal part socioeconomic theory of ruling class domination and armchair diagnosis of why everyone doesn't love their jobs all the time. 

The article begins by musing over Keynes's old, obviously wrong 1930 prediction that, by the year 2000, productivity increases would leave us all only working 15 hour weeks to maintain the same standard of living we had in 1930. Keynes is right that we could each work 15 hours a week and live "as well" (but obviously differently due to technology changes), and in fact probably a bit better, than we did in 1930, but clearly everyone has chosen to continue working 30, 40, and if you walk around Wall Street 60, 70, or more hours. The standard economics explanation is that we want to consume more than we did in 1930, or that maybe we get kind of bored when we don't have something to occupy us. 

Graeber does not come to the standard economics explanation. He says that the "standard line" must be false because our current jobs have little to do with our current consumption pleasures (more on that assertion later), and instead formulates the theory that we overwork ourselves to entrench the dominance of the rich at the expense of the proletariat. I think the following two passages summarize Graeber's arguments well. On the conspiracy: 
" The answer clearly isn’t economic: it’s moral and political. The ruling class has figured out that a happy and productive population with free time on their hands is a mortal danger (think of what started to happen when this even began to be approximated in the ‘60s). And, on the other hand, the feeling that work is a moral value in itself, and that anyone not willing to submit themselves to some kind of intense work discipline for most of their waking hours deserves nothing, is extraordinarily convenient for them."
And on the results:
"For instance: in our society, there seems a general rule that, the more obviously one’s work benefits other people, the less one is likely to be paid for it.  Again, an objective measure is hard to find, but one easy way to get a sense is to ask: what would happen were this entire class of people to simply disappear? Say what you like about nurses, garbage collectors, or mechanics, it’s obvious that were they to vanish in a puff of smoke, the results would be immediate and catastrophic. A world without teachers or dock-workers would soon be in trouble, and even one without science fiction writers or ska musicians would clearly be a lesser place. It’s not entirely clear how humanity would suffer were all private equity CEOs, lobbyists, PR researchers, actuaries, telemarketers, bailiffs or legal consultants to similarly vanish. (Many suspect it might markedly improve.) Yet apart from a handful of well-touted exceptions (doctors), the rule holds surprisingly well. "
So, I'll begin on the conspiracy. Graeber's idea is an interesting (and arguably mutually exclusive) twist on the standard liberal interpretation of the ruling class employment conspiracy, which is that companies are unprofitably employing too few workers to keep unemployment high and thus wages low. Now, we hear that corporations are unprofitably employing too many workers to prevent the social revolution that will topple them from their 1% throne. 

The hole in this theory is that firms are engaging in this unprofitable activity. These kinds of theories too often assume that the wealthy have the power to do whatever they want. Any firm that hires unprofitable workers can be undercut by another firm willing to stick with an efficient work force until the first firm goes out of business or follows suit. Even if we assume that Graeber's argument that our 40 hour work weeks are all that stand between us and a revolution of the proletariat is correct, then it's not too hard to see why firms would fail to stop the revolution. No one firm can employee all the surplus labor to prevent the revolution, so every firm needs to chip in. However, any one firm can easily free ride off the efforts of the other firms, enjoying the extra profits and protection from revolution. This means firms will shirk their responsibilities until everyone is only working 15 hours/week and joining the American Communist Party in their spare time. 

Graeber has the sense to argue that the modern 40 hour work week has emerged naturally through trial and error, not from some plan hatched in a smoky board room. Nonetheless, it's unclear what mechanism would drive us towards this outcome instead of revolution. Why are companies individually giving up profits when it does them no good? Why are workers choosing to work so long when they don't need the money for anything useful? The most logically consistent answer is that these workers are profitable for the companies and that the workers want to do this work because they will use the money to buy something they care about more than their free time. We could start from the assumption that workers and firms are stupid/deluded and maybe get to Graeber's conclusion, but I don't see why that should be the automatic starting point. 

I think Graeber's speculation on the effect of the modern BS job is more interesting than his questionable conspiracy theory. Graeber argues that the workers of the world are either A. well paid in a BS job we hate or B. poorly paid and under appreciated in a job that's useful but society has conspired to repress. Standard economic theory has a pretty good explanation for why jobs that seem useful, even necessary (garbage collectors) are not paid as much as jobs that seem superfluous (pro baseball player), and it's the same reason diamonds cost more than water. The problem for garbage collectors is that it's a job that anyone, (with lots of hard work!), can do, whereas only a select few have the talents to be pro baseball players. The result is that companies (or city governments) don't have to pay as much to attract the necessary number of garbage collectors whereas the baseball teams need to pay a lot to snatch up the scarce baseball talent. As Tabarrok notes at the link, "Moreover, it’s good that prices are determined on the margin. We would be very much the poorer, if all useful goods were expensive and only useless goods were cheap." The same logic applies to trash collection. Is this fair? Probably not! That's why I think redistribution makes so much sense, but that's different than saying that the wages of garbage collectors are being repressed by the 1%. 

But the wage issue aside, I think Graeber is right that a lot of people hate their jobs. Wouldn't it be great if we could spend time doing things we love like painting, writing, and playing music instead of boring stuff like accounting? First of all, I think Graeber undercounts the extent to which jobs he, (or even the people doing them!) regard as BS do play an important role in bringing us the stuff we want. A lot of my fellow K students enjoyed study abroad, but we needed an airline to get us there! Graeber's theory would explain that the ones necessary to get us abroad, the pilots, stewards, baggage handlers, ect. are underpaid so that the airline can employ a bunch of finance, PR, and HR people to prevent the revolution. But, has Graeber ever thought of what would happen to a flight if the price of oil suddenly shot up? Airlines operate on thin profit margins, and an unexpected oil shock can make an airline so deeply unprofitable that a ten or twenty dollar increase can drive them out of business before the price goes down or the airline can adjust. Thus, airlines employ lots of people who try to forecast the price of oil and invest on oil commodities in such a way that if the price goes up, they'll make money to offset the losses on flights. Thus, we can always count on flights to carry us to the chateaus of France or the jungles of Thailand even if there's a crisis in Syria. Thanks BS finance jobs! I could go on through the list, pointing out how jobs it's easy to label as BS serve very useful functions that result in us being able to buy stuff and do things we want, for a price of course, which is why we work because we want those things! The problem is that the modern economy is complex, so it's not always clear how any given job is useful. But, if you're being paid for your work, that means some group of people out there is willing to give up their hard earned cash to avail themselves of some good or service you're involved in producing. 

However, it's still true that a lot of people in Graeber's BS job category dislike their work. Is this the ultimate downfall of capitalism, the sign that we are stuck in an endless rat race? I think Graeber's problem is that he's someone who likes the intellectual pursuits of academia and romanticizes blue collar work (to be clear, I mostly fall into this category as well!). Graeber thus assumes that anyone not able to engage in this kind of lifestyle must wish they could enter Graeber's world of intellectual and physical pursuits. But how do people spend free time when they suddenly have more of it? Well, according to the American Time Use Survey, when people become unemployed, they spend about 20 more minutes a day reading/writing or exercising and 100 more minutes a day watching TV (see table 1 on page 5). Furthermore, people enjoy their free time less, evidence that work, even work we don't love or find super satisfying, is an important part of having a balanced day and feeling productive. I think this SMBC comic sums up my thoughts well. 

There are lots of things in this world that we love so much that we do them for free, like blogging or making youtube videos. But then there are other things, like managing an airline's exposure to oil price risk, that are not so much fun that we'd do them in our spare time. The fact that we pay people willing to train for and do such jobs more than we pay people in jobs that are fun/satisfying is not evidence of a great 1% conspiracy or a sign that our work is keeping us from enjoying life. Rather, it's a way of saying, on a massive scale, "hey, I want to do something that requires you to do something that's not much fun, but I'm guessing you probably want stuff like eating out at restaurants, healthcare, or watching major league baseball, and that requires other people to do stuff that's not much fun. So, if you're willing to work so I can do the thing I want, I'll make sure you can get some of those other things you want". Fundamentally, it's because lots of people are willing to make that sort of trade off that we work 40 hours today instead of working 15 hours and living like we did in 1930. 






Tuesday, September 2, 2014

Phil's Travels Chart: Updated

Loyal readers will remember my chart from March breaking down where I'd spent time over the preceding 365 days. Well, I decided to update the chart to the day I returned back from NYC. I decided to make the categories more broad, but there are still many colors!


Phil's Travels 
Each slice shows the percentage of the preceding 365 days spent in that region. Current: 8/23/14 

Now that I'm back in kzoo for awhile, Michigan can slowly fill up the circle once again.

Dresden, Prague, Vienna, Budapest, and Istanbul

Here is a much overdo post on my Easter Vacation (that's what the brits call spring break) travels. I teamed up with a fellow K student at LSE and two other LSE General Coursers to take a trip around central Europe. Riley came over from Germany to join us through the middle part of our journey. In chronological order:

Dresden

We fly into Dresden from London early in the morning and stayed from one night, drawn mostly by the promise of German beer and sausage. There was indeed beer and sausage, but I was also pleasantly surprised to discover that Dresden is home to the Old Master's Gallery (except in German). The collection was basically the highlights of my late Renaissance art history class all in one ornately beautiful building. Highlights include Raphael's Sistine Madonna and Giorgionne's / Titian's Sleeping Venus. Dresden was also notable for the currywurst we enjoyed there.

We ate delicious currywurst 

Prague

Overlooking Prague
A view of Prague's castle in the distance
I think Prague wins my favorite city of the trip award. The main town was nestled down in a valley overlooked by a castle. We did the usual walking around the town and checking out the chapel and old cemetery, but the climb up to the castle offered the best views. Besides reaching the awesome castle and a vantage point over the entire city, you have to climb Prague's hill to reach a first rate (formerly?) monastic brewery. Although there were only four beers to choose from, every one was excellent and unique. The food was also generously portioned and my goulash was full of fresh meat and flavor. We found a number of great beers during our time in Prague and I gained a new appreciation of the simple and refreshing Bohemian pilsners and lagers.

Goulash at the monastery 
The Lobkowicz Palace collection was a fascinating cultural experience. The Lobkowicz's were a super influential Czech family who had all of their land appropriated and were forced to flee during the Czech communist period. When the iron curtain fell, the family returned and preserved their estates as a piece of history. The palace is fascinating as a place full of super cool old stuff (weapons, original Beethoven manuscripts, instruments, ect) and for a great audio commentary that guides you through the region's history from the perspective of the major events surrounding the Lobkowicz family. After visiting the palace, I started to notice Lobkowicz stuff everywhere.

Some of the great beers in Prague
Vienna
Our first stop: schnitzel the size of your face

Vienna was the most beautiful city of my trip. The city reminds me of a combination of Italy and Germany. German was the main language, and the first evening we had schnitzel the size of our heads. But wine was more popular than beer, gelato was the dessert of choice, and the architecture was somewhat mediterranean. The next time I return to Vienna, I plan on making a day trip to the Alps that surround the city.
Schonbrunn Palace

The trip to Schonbrun Palace and its gardens was fun, as was learning about the famous Empress Sisi and the rise and fall of her family's empire. My favorite cultural experience was the Kunsthistoriches Museum. In addition to having an impressive collection, the museum itself is an incredible structure filled with marble and gold. It was built at the height of the Austro-Hungarian empire, and so no expense was spared.

A fairground in Vienna had a respectable collection of pinball machines, including Medieval Madness
Budapest
Delicious food!

Budapest was an exhausting city but full of new places to explore. We started our time there with a three hour walking tour from an incredible hostess who also pointed us to a great local restaurant where I enjoyed more delectable goulash. Budapest is actually divided into two sides - the hip Pest and the more posh Buda. We went to some fun bars built in old ruins over in Buda and then spent the next day soaking at the Szechenyi Turkish baths. The baths were a series of indoor and outdoor pools marketed for their mineral composition and alleged health benefits. The elderly population can have their season passes paid for by the national health system, and indeed on our Wednesday visit the place was filled with older men and women soaking in saunas or hunching over jets.
Church along our walking tour

Buda is home to some nice restaurants (still cheap by US, and especially London, standards) and a giant hill that gives you a fair view across the city. Still, for young travelers, most of the action was in Pest.

Rub the statue's belly for good luck!
Istanbul
View across the channel 

After spending about three days in each of these cities, we ended our trip with six full days in Istanbul. We were all excited to be in a part of the world so different from anywhere we'd been before. In Dresden, Prague, Vienna, and to a somewhat lesser extent Budapest, english was common and the cities were definitely Western in their socialization. We were hoping for something different in Istanbul. Minarets broadcasting calls to prayer were a welcome change of pace from the bells of cathedrals that had dominated most of my travels, and the views out into the Black Sea were beautiful. Given that I was visiting an Islamic state, I was surprised at the level of secularization. While there were plenty of burqas, there were also plenty of skinny jeans and fashionable head scarves. The highly imperfect analogy that I use is that Istanbul was as Islamic as a rural southern part of the US is Christian. I imagine that the rest of Turkey is much less cosmopolitan.

The Hagia Sophia
During our week in Istanbul, we stayed at a hostel in the Beyoglu, which is right across the river from Fatih where all the big sites like the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque are. Using another imperfect analogy, I would call Beyoglu the Brooklyn of Istanbul, just in the sense that it seems to be a place where more people, and often younger people, live. Beyoglu is probably most famous as the home of Taskim Square, the site of many protests over the past year and a half. I enjoyed staying in Beyoglu because I thought the food was better and cheaper and it was nice to get a sense of Istanbul residents living outside of the main tourist area. I was struck by how the roads around the major sites were all perfect, and there was an excellent tram system running from Beyoglu through the main areas of Fatih. However, outside of these major and tourist-filled corridors, the roads were uneven and public transit sparse.

View from river cruise
The big mosques and sites in Istanbul were amazing, but I was underwhelmed by the food (which was good), but I had been led to believe that Istanbul was one of the best places for street food. I would like to return someday and explore more of the city, which is huge and home to over 14 million people.

I was happy to be able to explore so much of the world I had never been to before! Hopefully I will be back to see more.







Monday, April 14, 2014

Exam Revision at LSE

Now that I'm done with my trip, the last leg of my journey at LSE begins: studying for exams. When I applied to LSE and learned there was a five week break between Lent and Summer term, I naively assumed that it was an actual break. Actually, because all of one's grade at LSE is based on the final exams, you get some rather perverse effects that lead most students to slack off for most of Michaelmas and Lent terms then study their butts off over most of the Easter Holiday and straight into Summer term. 

As a General Course student, I'm in a somewhat different situation. This being a rare chance to be in Europe, I naturally wanted to spend most of my Easter Holiday traveling and not holed up in the library. In addition, I am blessed to have the opportunity to visit Italy with my mom and dad and see my Italian relatives next week, and then have my parents and sister join me for a week in London the week after that. Naturally, I am very excited to see my family and explore Italy and London with them! However, the result is that instead of taking three weeks of Easter Holiday to study and then not letting up until exams in late May / early June, I only have one week of studying over the holiday and am going to be spending most of the first week of Summer term with my family.

However, I think I've been keeping up with my coursework more than most LSE students (I was one of four students out of my class of 25 to show up for a mock exam in my economic history class at the end of Lent term), and I'll do a bit more studying during the time I have. Altogether, I think I'll be fine, and I actually prefer having a few more weeks of really good fun with friends and family to having somewhat easier studying days. 

However, today is not one of those days of really good fun, but rather intense studying. So, I'm off to the library! 

(As implied in the title, I should not call it studying, but revision if I want to be properly British!) 

Updates to Come

I returned on Friday from my 18 day trip to Dresden, Prague, Vienna, Budapest, and Istanbul and am still a bit exhausted from whole thing! I had a great time though with some wonderful people.

As usual, I really don't feel like dealing with uploading a bunch of photos right after the trip, but rest assured that I will be updating this space soon (and Facebook).

Blogroll update

Observant readers may note that I've made a few updates to the blogroll on the righthand side over the past month. The reason is that there have been a few big shakeups recently in the wonkosphere. First, Ezra Klein left wonkblog to start a new venture about three or four months ago. Shortly thereafter, Mathew Yglesias left Moneybox at Slate as did a few other wonky writers at the Washington Post and the New York Times. A few weeks ago, they all came out together with Vox, a website dedicated to posts discussing politics, economics, and explaining the news. Meanwhile, Nate Silver left the New York Times and brought FiveThirtyEight to ESPN. I too was scared that he would turn into some sports jock, but the website still satisfyingly dedicates the majority of its space to politics, economics, and general data analysis, allowing me to cheerily skip over the boring stories about baseball. Nate has also poached and found some good talent from across the internet. Vox and FiveThirtyEight together probably have the majority of my favorite writers on the internet, so this is naturally very exciting for me. A third link I've added is Emma Pierson's blog, Obsession with Regression. Pierson is 22 years old (!) and already involved in a lot of interesting statistical work with groups such as 23andme, Okaycupid, and Eharmony. She also writes at FiveThirtyEight, which is how I heard about her. Next year, she's going to be a Rhodes Scholar doing something incredible and making me feel inadequate for not being remotely close to her current successful nerdy trajectory. Nonetheless, her writing is very interesting, passionate, and funny.

Check out the three new sites!

Saturday, March 8, 2014

Phil's Travels in One Chart

Did you all like my catchy Wonkblog-worthy title? I'll be up to SEO in no time.

Anyways, here's a chart of the number of days I've spent in different geographic locations over the past 365 days.


I predict that things will be even more colorful by the time I make it back to Kalamazoo, but by the end of my senior year, "Midwest" should occupy the vast majority once again. After I graduate though, the chart will once again be changing (most likely, if I go to grad school somewhere in the midwest, I may have to subdivide region)!

London Beer

I turned 21 a month and a half before coming to London and loved exploring Michigan's craft beer culture. Beer in London is certainly a different creature than beer back in the US. On the one hand, it's a much more casual social tool. Thanks to open container laws, it's exceedingly common to see people spilling out into the streets from pubs with beers in hand or some people drinking a bottle of beer going down the street. Because the drinking age is 18, everyone at university can drink and it's not uncommon to see our student pub entertaining a few patrons at 1:00 in the afternoon. In addition, the random beer you might get in the typical pub is moderately better than what you'd randomly get in the US. However, craft beer has not spread in the UK (or Europe in general) like it has in the US. The beer hits a quality ceiling very rapidly. A pint in London is also much more expensive than it is in the States, but that goes without saying.

Craft beer is not completely nonexistent in jolly old England, however. With the help of my fellow K student here at LSE, I've been exploring the brews over at The Kernel Brewery. Kernel is only open on Saturdays from 10-3 in a little archway under a train tunnel. The area is home to a number of other enterprises set up under the train tunnel, including fresh meats, cheeses, vegetables, and honey, but Kernel's beer is clearly the main attraction. My first sip of Kernel's Chinook Pale Ale was unlike anything I've had since before I left for Europe. About ten minutes from Kernel is Brew by Numbers, which features some pretty good stuff. Also worth stopping in is the Scottish brewery Brew Dog, which has a few pubs in London. The Draft House is a nearby pub that is always serving up an eclectic collection of craft beers.   Next on my list is the new Weird Beard Brewing Company. Also of interest is the uniquely European Ales by Mail (which is exactly what it sounds like).

I still miss my old favorites from home, but there is still plenty of beer for me try here in the UK! It's too bad exams are coming so quickly...

DeLaZoo

Continuing with Nerd's Eye View's long tradition of music recommendations (okay, I've only done one), I want to say that Kalamazoo native and West Middle School/Portage Northern High School alumni DeLaZoo is spitting some quality rap. I've known DeLaZoo, who I grew up calling Devin, since around the sixth grade. He sat in front of me playing french horn in Mr. Mumma's band class, we had Spanish class together in 8th grade, and I always saw Devin around the halls in high school. DeLaZoo has made quite a splash on youtube and in the Kalamazoo rap scene. Last week, I gave a listen to some of his music, and it's good. Very good.

I wish I knew more about rap so I could give a better description of DeLaZoo's influences and styles. I can definitely hear some influence from a bit of Kanye West's earlier works. I do listen to a fair amount of rap, I have ears, and I like what DeLaZoo is making. What stands out to me about DeLaZoo's music is his creative lyricism and production on his songs. I have to admit that DeLaZoo's frequent references as a Michigan native native really tug on my heart strings; a song that has a reference to Ambereley or a music video shot in Bronson Park on Candy Cane Lane scores a few brownie points with me.

Where to start with DeLaZoo? Well, here's his first youtube video that got some popularity in the underground rap community. His most recent mixtape is "Elsewhere Better". Two of my favorite tracks are the eponymous Elsewhere Better and the more sentimental Art School. Apparently another mixtape "The Waiting Place" will be released soon.

It's great to see someone from Kalamazoo doing something so unique (did I mention that another PN graduate recently published a book)? I wish Devin the best of luck as he keeps making music!



Sunday, March 2, 2014

Same Old Russia

My History of Russia 1672-1825 course has given me some unique perspective on the current issues between Ukraine and Russia over Crimea. I've seen some people comparing this to the Cold War or even the political tensions preceding WWI, but Russia's interest in Crimea dates back even further.

Here's Putin requesting permission from Russia's Federation Council to send troops into Ukraine:

"Due to the extraordinary situation on Ukraine, with threats to the lives of citizens of the Russian Federation, our compatriots, and of the the personnel of the military contingent of the Armed Forces of the Russian Federation located in accordance with the international agreement on the territory of Ukraine (in the Autonomous Republic of Crimea), and on the basis of Paragraph D, Part 1 of Article 102 of the Constitution of the Russian Federation, I am submitting to the Federation Council of the Federal Assembly of the Russian Federation an appeal for use of the armed forces of the Russian Federation on the territory of Ukraine, for the purpose of normalising the political situation in this country."

And here's Catherine the Great more than 230 years earlier on April 8, 1783 announcing Russia's annexation of Crimea:

"And therefore, in keeping with the solicitude incumbent upon us for the welfare and majesty of our fatherland, striving to assure its welfare and security, and likewise looking this as a means of eliminating forever the unpleasant causes that disturb the eternal peace concluded between the Russian and Ottoman empires...we have decided to take under our dominion the Crimean Peninsula..."

In today's context, change "Ottoman empires" to "Western Europe". Sound familiar?

Of course, Putin can't explicitly take over Crimea like his predecessor did, but sending in troops to prop up a puppet government is just as good. Another difference is that most people in Crimea today really do want closer ties with Russia (although the Crimean Tatars are a notable exception who have a long history with Russia), whereas most people in Crimea during Catherine's time probably just wanted everyone to stop fighting and burning their farms all the time.

Crimea has always been important to Russia because it provides an ideal port along the Black Sea and a buffer with their neighbors. It wouldn't surprise me if unrest in Eastern Ukraine prompts another military response from Putin, leading more of Ukraine to separate from Kiev and giving Russia another buffer state.

Potemkin's memorandum to Catherine urging her to annex Crimea is also telling. Talking about the potential benefits, Potemkin lists:

"navigation on the Black Sea will be free; as it is now, your ships have difficulty in leaving port and find it still harder to enter...The acquisition of the Crimea can neither strengthen nor enrich you, but it will give you security."

The Victoria and Albert Museum

I suspect that my favorite "museum" will always be the Vatican Museum (I use quotes because it is so much more than a museum). But yesterday I decided that the Victoria and Albert Museum may be my second or third favorite museum. I can't decide until I get to visit the Imperial War Museum again, which unfortunately won't be possible for awhile because they're under renovation until after I leave London.

The name of the V&A refers to Queen Victoria and her husband, Prince Albert, both of whom were major supporters of the arts and sciences in Britain. The first iteration of the museum was built after the Great Exhibition of 1851, and construction of the building that stands today began in 1899. 

I love the V&A because it has both variety and quality in its exhibits. A dozen renaissance marble statues confront me as I enter the museum, then I turn a corner into a room filled with display cases of British clothing from the 16th-20th centuries, then enter a room dedicated to the Raphael Cartoons. After seeing so many different objects from various eras, I was unsurprised when I found one section featuring hundreds of keys and locks. Every exhibit was accompanied by enough information to put the objects and art into context, but not so much information that I was overwhelmed. When I grew bored of one section of the museum, it was easy to walk into a room with something entirely different. 

On top of all this, the V&A is free, and it's hard to dislike that. 






Sunday, February 23, 2014

Scotland

After my friends left London, I took a few days to recover then headed off to join Neha, Agnes, and Cindy, three fellow General Course students, up in Scotland. We visited Edinburgh and Glasgow from January 5th to January 11th. Seeing Scotland's two largest cities was really interesting as was seeing the differences between England and Scotland. It was also fun to spend some time with fellow General Course students outside of school and London.
View from Edinburgh Castle

-Edinburgh castle was full of fascinating and super old buildings. The castle is so old, in fact, that they're not sure when exactly it was constructed or by whom.

Enjoying some haggis with a dram of whisky 
-The Scottish people have made a very disproportionate contribution to the British Empire since the Act of Union in 1707. I had learned a bit about this in my British History class back at K, but it was enlightening to see so many examples in the museums in Edinburgh and Glasgow. James Watt (inventor of the steam engine), Adam Smith (father of modern economics), and Alexander Fleming (inventor of antibiotics) were all proud Scots. James Bond fans will know that the original Bond of the books and movies was Scottish, and this fits perfectly with the British Empire's history where Scots played disproportionate roles in the British military and colonial administration. It's remarkable what a profound impact such a small nation has had on the world.

Inside the world's largest whisky collection
-We watched a debate in the Scottish Parliament in Edinburgh, and were lucky to witness a very exciting one! The debate was over a bill to expand free school lunches. As some of you may be aware, Scotland is currently in the process of setting up a vote on whether or not to become independent, and this issue colored the entire debate. Scotland has a number of different parties. There is a Labour Party and Conservative Party which correspond to their counterparts in Westminster. However, the majority party is the left wing Scottish National Party (SNP), which is leading the charge for independence. There is also a smaller, centrist Scottish Liberal Party. Normally, the SNP and Labour Party see eye to eye on most issues, but Labour is opposed to independence. On this issue, Labour advocated increasing childcare credits for working parents as more effective. The Conservatives were opposed to the whole thing, but Scotland is a fairly leftist nation and they don't have much of a voice. More than disagreeing on what would be most effective, the rift between Labour and the SNP came up over an amendment supporting independence added onto the bill. Anyways, it was an interesting debates, with plenty of the booing and cheering that makes British politics famous. Some of the politicians were quite skilled orators, and it was fun to listen to the back and forths as the parties grilled each other with questions during the speeches. The bill (predictably given SNP's majority) passed, but the independence issue is still very much up in the air and will depend on the upcoming vote.

We visited the Royal Botanical Gardens in Edinburgh where there was a pavilion dedicated to the Queen Mother, who was a Scot. 
-Scottish accents range from fairly normal sounding to completely incomprehensible to me. On a bus in Glasgow, I sat behind two men coming back from work, and I could not understand a word they exchanged (although they were speaking English)! On my distillery tour (described below), they showed a video where one of the workers interviewed had subtitles.




Edinburgh



-I fell in love with Scotch Whisky during my time in Scotland. During our last day in Glasgow, I took a day trip to the Glengoyne Distillery. The trip was informative and a fun way to get out into Scotland's beautiful countryside. I wasn't sure when the bus would arrive to take me back into Glasgow, but a very kind man who saw me walking along the rode gave me a ride to the nearest town where I could catch a train. The man turned out to be a police officer who grew up in the area and remembered the "good old days" when it was unthinkable to not offer a ride to someone walking along the rode. He was very kind, interested in my travels, and seemed to know a lot about the community surrounding Glasgow. His brother-in-law ran the Glengoyne distillery, in fact. Anyways, on the subject of Whisky, I love the depth of the flavors involved. I picked up a few bottles, and every time I have a wee dram, I discover something new in the taste. Different whisky's also have very distinct flavors based on where the barley was grown, where they were distilled, and what kind of barrel they matured in.
A view of the countryside outside the distillery

As President Obama has pointed out, the UK is about the same size as Oregon, but the country is filled with diversity and different people. I loved seeing a different part of the UK outside of London! 
At Glengoyne Distillery 

New Years in London

After visiting Germany, Riley, Audrienne, and I said goodbye to Allison and Ben and went to London from December 28th to January 4th to celebrate New Years. It turns out that many K students studying abroad choose London as their destination to celebrate the New Year. I got to hang out with some friends who I hadn't seen for more than half a year. We spent a lot of time exploring the city with Hunter, one of my flatmates at K last year. Hunter has always been a big fan of British culture (talk to her about Sherlock sometime!), and her excitement for seeing all the sites in London was infectious. I always have the most fun in London when people visit me, and this time was no exception.

-London is so full of things to do that it was easy to find plenty of attractions I hadn't visited yet to fill our time. This included the Tower of London complete with Beefeater tour and the City of London Museum. The London Museum was a treat I hadn't known about before. It covered the history of the city from its hunter/gatherer roots thousands of years ago up to today. My knowledge of London's past has always been murky, so it was informative to learn the history of this city I've been living in! After the others had gone, Trent (studying in Spain) and I visited the Churchill War Rooms where British military officials spent much of the war during German air raids (although Churchill himself thought the rooms were rather stuffy and often preferred to watch the air raids from his roof, being a total badass). Anyways, the attached museum on Churchill was full of enough information and interactive exhibits to entertain you for hours, and Trent and I as two war buffs spent a good amount of time in there. Well worth the ticket price.

-Drew (a fellow K student studying at LSE) joined Hunter, Audrienne, Riley, and I to wait in the returns cue to see if we could get tickets for LeMis. There were not returned tickets, but as we started to leave a man came up and said he had an extra ticket because his date was sick, and he was willing to give it to us for free. We decided to let Hunter go, and she had a great time and said the man was very nice! I hope the karma gods are kind to him.

Enjoying some fish n' chips with Hunter!
-New Years itself was fun but very stressful for many parts. Say what you will about the nightlife in Kalamazoo, but there are a few nice things Kalamazoo has that London does not. 1) people generally have large enough houses/apartments where you can hang out with a large group of friends before/after going out 2) There are plenty of places where you can enjoy some of the best beer in the world for much less than the standard 3.50 pounds (~$6) that a standard pint runs you in London and 3) although the fireworks in Kalamazoo are not as impressive as London's show, it's really easy to find an excellent spot to view them, which can not be said for London

where you have to line up 5 or 6 hours in advance. Of course, it was fun to spend New Years with my friends in a big city, but next New Years, I think I will appreciate all the things Kalamazoo's humble New Year's Fest has to offer.
K students in London! 

The nice thing about London, however, is that there is always more to see!

Germany

I visited Germany from December 17th-27th. I've been lucky to visit Europe several times with my family, but it's been about fourteen years since I travelled outside of Italy, so it was exciting to see a different part of Europe. Although I love traveling with my family, it was also a new experience to have so much autonomy over what I did and to be traveling with other people my own age.

View from the top of the town hall in Rothenburg
I spent most of the time staying with Riley in Erlangen at her student apartment. Erlangen is only a fifteen minute train ride from Nuremberg and located in the beautiful southern Bavaria region of Germany. Erlangen itself is a fun student town, home to the large Frederich-Alexander University where Riley studies. Audrienne, a friend from Kalamazoo College currently studying abroad in France, joined us on December 20th for some more traveling and the three of us spent Christmas together. While Riley finished classes, I traveled to Rothenburg and Wurzburg, and then when Riley finished classes and Audrienne arrived, we all spent a few days exploring Erlangen and Nuremberg. Then we met up with Ben and Allison, two friends from K studying abroad in Spain, to visit Munich and the famous Neuschwanstein Castle.

Cathedral in Rothenburg

Looking down a street in Rothenburg from the wall surrounding the city

A few observations:



Gluhwein!

-Christmas markets are ubiquitous in Germany, and not just for tourists. Rothenburg's market was more touristy, but that whole town felt like the atmospheric elements of a Disney theme park, so that was unsurprising. Riley assured me that in Erlangen and Nuremberg, locals regularly visit the markets after work and on the weekends. I ate more sausages and drank more gluhwein from the market stalls than was probably healthy. Btw gluhwein is better than British mulled wine.

With Riley and Audrienne in Nuremberg! 
-I missed my family on Christmas, but it was reassuring to have some good friends to celebrate it with. Riley gave me a really cool and handy Iphone case that doubles as a bottle opener(!!) and Audrienne gave me a lamb wool sweater and macaroons from France. Both presents were very thoughtful and I use them regularly. Audrienne was also ready to lend her considerable cooking skills to helping us prepare a delicious Christmas meal and make some fun Christmas drinks.
Enjoying some Christmas cheer

-Germans speak better English than I do.

Inside a cathedral in Wurzburg completely destroyed during WWII. 
-The most interesting thing I learned from the cathedrals and museums I visited was the extent of the destruction inflicted by allied bombings on German cities during WWII. The city of Nuremberg was completely leveled by British bombing, and not even its most culturally significant sites were spared. The city we see today was completely reconstructed in the 50s and 60s. Dresden, Berlin, Bamburg, and other German cities were similarly devastated. Of course, London and cities across Japan suffered heavy damage from bombing as well. We took a tour of the bunkers in Nuremberg that were used to protect Nuremberg's most valuable artwork and artifacts. Our guide was a very pleasant and knowledgable German woman who lived through the air raids of WWII. Germany has made a conscious effort to reconstruct its cities in a manner congruous with their historical roots. This is certainly understandable; if Germany simply covered its rubble with completely new buildings, it would mean accepting that the allied bombings had permanently destroyed a part of their history. It was saddening to see how war had inspired so much hatred that led to destruction and death.

-Neuschwanstein Castle was beautiful but a bit crowded. The eccentric Ludwig II began construction on the castle in 1869, but it remained unfinished following his mysterious death in 1892. The castle was based on Ludwig's fanciful and wrong conception of what a renaissance castle should look like, and it is widely considered to be the inspiration for the Disney castle. The tour through the inside was a bit rushed through the finished parts, but those parts were interesting and beautiful. The best part of the experience was walking up to the castle and taking photos around the area. It was fun to get into the mountainous part of Bavaria and explore a bit.

A view of Neuschwanstein Castle
I loved spending a significant amount of time in a single region of Germany with some good friends. Although ten days isn't nearly enough time to really "know" a place, I do feel like I gained some understanding of Bavaria. Riley was a gracious hostess, ready to help with her language skills and familiarity with the region and introducing us to a few of her German friends. Typing this post has made me excited for my next trip to mainland Europe!
The beer in Germany was very good

Sunday, January 5, 2014

Update and a bit on British politics

I'm just over halfway through my Winter Break and am having a great time. I was in Germany over Christmas and London for New Years with other students from K. It was great to catch up with all these people I haven't seen in months, and comforting to have some friends around for the holidays. I'm about to board a plane for Scotland, but I'll be sure to post on all my break activities next week. 

In the meantime, here are a few thoughts on this news cycle's political dust up here in the UK. Ed Miliband, leader of the opposition Labour Party, has recently taken a stance to eliminate a loophole that allows agencies to pay EU immigrants less than their Briish counterparts. The fear is that as more Romanian and Bulgarian immigrants come in, this could lower British wages. 

My thinking: 
1) The agencies' practices are deemed "exploitative" because they are paid less than UK counterparts for the "same job". Whenever the term "same job" is bandied about, complexities are being ignored. Are factors such as experience, language skills, and education accounted for? It could be that the immigrants are paid less because they are less productive. 

2) Ed Miliband is worried about Britain's cost of living and understandably wants higher wages. He notes that low wage immigrants work in the food and packaging industries. What are some major determinants of the cost of living? The cost of food and the cost of shipping, which impacts the cost of everything else! 

3) Mr. Miliband correctly notes that cheap immigrant labor creates some winners and some losers. Native workers in those industries have some competition, but all other Britons enjoy lower prices. Mr. Miliband wants to switch the winners and losers. What makes him think his selection is better? Who knows! The current arrangement, however, can be defended by volumes of economic literature on how prices adjust towards an efficient equilibrium. 

4) I'm sure Mr. Miliband is far from concerned about the fate of Britain's current and potential immigrants, but they are people too and worth considering. If they're accepting these low wage jobs, they must be tremendous improvements over their current opportunities. What will the cost be to these immigrants if the law makes it more difficult for agencies to hire them? They will likely lose an important path out of serious poverty.